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Memories of the Roaster: Introducing our Burundi Kivubo

We are exciting to tell you that Burundi is now at our portafolio for the first time. Yes, this is a historic moment for Cafetoria. Why it took so long? Unlike most of the Latin American coffees, coffees from Burundi, Tanzania and Rwanda can be a bit flat and it is easier to turn into a boring coffee with some burny taste. If you have ever drunk coffee in an airplane you can understand what I am talking about! So we wanted to make sure that if we take a Burundi coffee, this should have great sensorial properties.
So like many things in life, decisions happen many times without planning and this applies specially for us. Last June, when we visited the World of Coffee in Amsterdam, we cupped a lot of coffees but between the 100 different coffees that we cupped we found about 5 beans that called us our attention. One of these beans that impressed so much to us was this nice Burundi Kivubo. We really liked the fruity notes, creaminess, cleanness and sophisticated sweetness of this bean. So that was it. We secured few sacks of these coffees for you!
THE BEAN
Burundi is situated on a plateau at an altitude of 1400m – 1800m. Coffee in this country is mainly produced by small farmers, who concentrate on around 160 washing stations. Our Burundi Kivubo is grown in the Mutambu region. The combination of dry and wet fermentation develops an extraordinary cup profile there.Due to the steep slopes in the Mutambu region the coffee is grown on terraces and is handpicked by local farmers.

Technical data:

  • Crop: 2017-2018
  • Altitude: 1800 masl
  • Varietals: Bourbon
  • Processing: Fully washed
  • Soil: volcanic

ROASTING BURUNDI KIVUBO, FIRST IMPRESSIONS
One thing that we love when opening a sack of a green coffee from Kenya AA is its frutal and fragrant aromas. This Burundi Kivubo

surprised us with similar delighting aromas. I did not expected this kind of nice, profound smell from Burundi. I could be just happy by its smell and then go home! In addition to its aromas Burundi beans are quite uniform in size (medium size) and very homogeneous. This is an indication of a good bean selection method. I say only “indication” because there are beans from a wide distribution size, such as our lovely coffee from Peru, Gran Palomar, which comes from farms located at different altitudes (1200 to 1800 masl) and is a mix of different varietals. All these result on a coffee selection from considerable variations in size.
But returning to our Burundi Kivubo, we wanted to alter our coffee roasting process so as to keep that nice delicate acidity and sweetness.  My first impressions after tasting this bean from our sample roaster is to approach a light to medium roast so I can underline those intrinsic red berry notes proper of the bean. We were lucky enough to also receive at the same time an order from a customer, Slurp, to provide this coffee as a DARK roast! You may say DARK ROAST? Why other coffee roasters refuse to roast at the dark roast level we do love going to that level. While it is true that many attributes of the bean are rescued at the light roast level I like going too, depending on the case, to the dark side because, as I use to say, it allow me to see different expressions of the perfect cup. My approach to the dark side for this Burundi was to put emphasis in preserving the delicate sweetness and acidity and adding some toasty notes on it but not too much, as otherwise I did not want this nice Burundi to taste like a coffee served in the airplanes!

In the picture on the left you can see the two different roasting levels. Quite visible difference on the appearance but, as you will see later, also on the taste.
THE BREWING
We were pleased with the flavour notes achieved through cupping but to have a clear description of both coffees in a “live scenario” we decided to use our Hario V60 small, by following this recipe:

  • Coffee grounds: 15 g
  • Water temperature: 92 degrees
  • Brewing time: 2′:30″ (4-5 total pulses)

The brewing was made with the 2-step pre-infusion method, a method that I invented last year and has given us extremely good results. If you ask a Hario V60 drink at our Café in Töölö we will make it with this method. We also used this method at the 1 stage of the Finnish Cup Brewer’s cup this year. At that stage, all participants were supposed to deliver the best cup that they deliver  using any brewing tool available. The Judge’s decision, based on blind tasting, allocated us in the 1st place!
OK, returning to the final cup with Hario, the color different on the coffee yields are remarkable:

Both cups are quite nice and besides the roasting approach we took I need to tell you that roasting a coffee, 100% Bourbon varietal, makes my mission already fascinating because Bourbon is a precious natural varietal that brings to the cup a delicate sweetness. The light roast version brings some notes of fermented fruits, like Tamarind, red berries (or pomegrande), chewy body, medium delicate acidity. This cup also offers some fragrances of noble woods too. On the other hand, the dark roast version brings some more concentrated notes of vanilla, caramel, black pepper and aromas of incense and carob like sweetness. This cup brings me also memories of some Finnish “Savu” (smoked) alcoholic drink and that can be a good selling point to Finnish consumers 🙂 To finalise, I sense a presence of matured black cherries acting, in a shy but clever way, at the background of the cup and I felt this presence is responsible of bring all these different organiloptic properties together, in harmony.
Both cups were tasting very good but as I always say, there is always room for optimisation. We will most probably launch this Burundi as a light-to-medium roast. It will be available in few weeks time but in the meantime you can visit our Coffee Bars at Töölö or in Lohja to drink our Burundi Kivubo as a dark roast and or take some bag for home.
Comments or inquires, feel free to bring it!
CR (Coffee regards)
Juanca
Cafetoria’s coffee roaster & Founder
Authorized SCA trainner – Barista
2007 Finnish Cup Taster Champion
DI Aalto University

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Coming from Blue wings: Brewing perfection

The April edition of Bluewing mazagine talk about coffee and about what they consider coffee pioneers. We want to thanks the journalist Shelly Nyqvist to dedicate some part of the article about us!:
Helsinki: Latin Fusion
Ivan Ore and Mia Nikander-Ore’s “love-for-coffee” story began on a visit to Ore’s home country of Peru in 2001. An uncle, who was a coffee producer, suggested they buy green coffees from the local cooperative and sell to roasters in Finland. Instead Ore ended up roasting the beans himself.
In 2002 the Peruvian-Finnish couple opened Cafetoria roastery in Lohja, about 50 kilometers west of Helsinki’s Töölö. And that’s where the tale of two cultures comes together.
“Diversity is our calling card and what defines us. We embrace the Latino culture”, says Ore. “Coffee should serve the people so that’s why we roast the whole spectrum.”
How they think about coffee is also unique in the traditional “Finnish” sense. “We date to be different and break the rules”, says Nikander-Ore. “For example, we’ve introduced a high quality organic Robusta coffee, which is taboo in the industry because the bean is considered more bitter than its aromatic cousin Arabica bean.”

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How we brewed our awarded filter coffee at HCF 2017

Two months before the Helsinki Coffee Festival we received an invitation from the organizers to participate in “The Coffee of the Year” competiton for the categories of “Best filter” and “Best espresso”. The invitation was offered to all Finnish coffee roasteries who joined the festival, in total 15 coffee roasteries. In this competition we did perform decently well achieving the 2nd place on the filter coffee category and 4th place on the espresso category!
As for the for the filter coffee we, Levi (Barista) and Iván (roaster) struggled a bit which coffee to choose from our assortment. We though first to submit our Beans & Roses which has an amazing complexity but finally we decided to use our Kenya Karimikui AA since we were recently obtaining extraordinary results thanks to Ivan’s never ending roasting optimizations.
Our Kenya Karimikui AA has really nice notes of red berries and Bubble gum, creamy and sticky and with a unique fermented acidity. Depending what temperature and brewing method is used, we could get notes of mature cherries of more delicate raspberries. In both, Hario V60 and Aeropress, we get really interesting fermented aftertaste. However, to balance a bit more we decided to use Chemex. With this  coffee maker we can make this coffee super clean and highlights the fruitiness and subtle acidity.
After the good feedbacks from the Festival event, we are happy to see that our roasting style and flavour philosophy is well appreciated by Finnish consumers.
Now we want to share with you our awarded Chemex recipe with Kenya Karimikui. We also recommend you to mix with ice (iced coffee) to get a very refreshing summer coffee drink.

Chemex recipe
45g Coffee
-Grind corser than filter coffee
-92c temp of the water

Prewetting with 100g water and wait 50sec. Then pour in spiral the water from outside to the center, drowning the coffee that can float and then stay in the center pouring water until you arrive to a total of 630g of water. Stop brewing at 4 to 4:30 min.
Baby Chemex recipe:
-23g coffee
-Same grind and temperature as earlier recipe
Repeat the process but in the prewetting you use 50g of water and wait 30 seconds. Use in total 340g of water. After 2 to 2:30 minutes your coffee should be ready.

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15 years of Direct Trade and friendship!

Thoughts of Ivan Ore (our roast master and a founder of Cafetoria)

At the end of each Christmas season, my wife Mia and me have taken the tradition of visiting Peru and our friends, the coffee producers of Gran Palomar. I need to confess that the trip is also an excellent excuse to scape every year from the dark and cold Finnish winter too!
Back in 2001, when we started this project of Cafetoria by bringing Gran Palomar raw coffee beans, we sincerely did not have any idea about how far this project was going to. What we saw at that time was the motivation of its people to restart their normal life after the disgraceful terrorism activities of Shining Path in the region. They did have only a single raw material to work with, the coffee, but things were not so easy because the coffee prices at that time was the lowest in 30 years.  Under this circunstances we decided, encouraged by the producer’s passion, to take one step of faith and do something about it.
During these 15 years many things have changed in the village. Once there was a time where the village’s activity ended very early in the day since there was no electricity, only a single fixed telephone line for all the village and lack of infraestructure to process efficiently the green coffee beans. Today every producer has its mobile phone and they enjoy basic services such as electricity and water. They also have built a big processing plant  that is in complaince with the EU organic regulations
On behalf of Cafetoria we want to thanks so much for your support and valoration to this coffee. Although nowadays we offer coffees from more than 16 countries Gran Palomar occupies a special place in our heart and we are delighted to know that it is also in a special place in the heart of many of our customers and final consumers!